St Martin’s College in London is a breeding ground of amazing fashion talent. Hussein Chalayan, Henrik Vibskov and Gareth Pugh are just some of the names to have graduated from this hallowed institution in recent times. Housed in the main hall of St Martin’s is a wall which is covered with a veritable who’s who of contemporary fashion designers. Each year a whole new group of graduates ‘names are added to the ever expanding wall of luminaries in the making.
Soon to be added to that great wall, undoubtedly, is Yang Li, a Perth ex-pat who creates accessories that are incredibly covetable. His work is innovative and simple, yet it bristles with an avante garde flair of the kind that a designer is inherently born with, regardless of their education. St Martin’s College has, however, helped Li to build on an already great depth of talent.
Li’s new collection of work for his label Cloth is sleek and edgy – he mixes the basics of menswear with unusual aesthetics. Sleeves become detached and displaced. Skinny ties are rendered in denim and skewered with button holes. Collars come with punk-esque wraparound features or – the piece de resistance – sprout human and synthetic hair to create something completely unique.
‘This collection is aimed at a much cleaner and refined aesthetic,’ Li explained. ‘There is less abstraction and more reference to actual garments. The collection is inspired by the classic men’s shirt and other staple items of the wardrobe. The colors of the collection are quite de-saturated, almost pastel mixed. The sharp construction of the collars and sleeves give it a nice serene feeling whist still being wearable.
‘The hair adds a new dimension to what we usually don’t associate with classic and simple clothes,’ Li said of the addition of this quirky, yet appealing, feature which makes what he calls hairy collars. ‘It’s something which is unexpected and draws your attention in such a clean cut and minimal collection.’
Recently, Li interned with Gareth Pugh. It was an opportunity that opened Li’s eyes to exactly how many hours a designer needs to dedicate to their work in order for it to be exciting and iconic. It’s a dedication which St Martin’s itself is instilling in the young designer, a dedication best summed up by Li’s ethos: work before glory.
‘Basically it sums up my belief that nothing of value can become yours without being earned,’ Li explained. ‘It’s just a little motto to keep me focused on the future.’
And focused Li is. His direction has been documented with an online portfolio – www.clothlabel.com.au/yang – which, in nine parts, explores notions of sportswear, influences from The Resurrectionists, explorations of ‘rotatable’ fashion, denim plus a look at the humble t-shirt and how to supersize it through maths. The overall impact shows the beginning of a fashion talent whose name will one day rival those of the names already lining the great wall of St Martin’s College.
Cloth is available exclusively from Dilettante on Wellington Street, Perth. For a local at the new range visit www.clothlabel.com.au/III.
Scott-Patrick Mitchell
