Robert La Bua finds a Mediterranean playground with a growing gay presence on the archipelago nation of Malta – an island whose seven islands have been at the crossroads of civilizations and trade routes since the beginning of Western history.

- Advertisement -

With its unusual history still part of everyday life, Malta has long been a destination that captures the imagination.  Despite its southern European, Roman Catholic and Arabic influences, Malta is surprisingly open-minded about lifestyles of the bitch and flamous; gaiety is not scorned as a lifestyle in this live-and-let-live society and the country is attracting more homotravellers than ever.

In Valletta, Malta’s walled capital, the essence of the Knights of Malta waits around every corner as one meanders along the triqs (streets) of the fortress city, from the Palace of the Grand Master, where the grandeur of the era can be seen in the impressive public rooms, to St John’s Co-Cathedral, where two exquisite Caravaggios in all their chiaroscuro splendour sit in the cathedral’s upstairs museum.  Other sights to be seen in this unusual national capital are the Museum of Fine Arts and the Museum of Archaeology, which gives a helpful overview to the islands’ ancient history.  Casa Rocca Piccola, a private home open to the public, offers a glimpse of the life of the upper class.  Yet more palatial is the Palazzo Parisio in the town of Naxxar; this regal residence of the Sciluna family has a ballroom to rival any royal palace and some of the prettiest gardens in the country.

Gardens are cherished in Malta, a land where water was and still is a precious commodity.  Le Meridien Phoenicia, located just outside Valletta’s city gate, is an ideally located hotel for travellers who like to get out and stroll amid history; its extensive gardens and pool with a view are wonderful on a hot summer afternoon. As an added bonus, it is within walking (read: stumbling) distance of Tom Bar, Malta’s oldest gay bar, run by the enigmatic Frank. 

Most G and L visitors head for the party section of town called St. Julian’s where the Paceville district is located.  Paceville (pronounced like the Italian PAH-che for peace, with ‘ville’ attached) is the place to see the young and hung at play.  True, most of them are straight, but that doesn’t necessarily stop admiring glances and wishful thinking later in the night. If you like your beers with queers, book your room at Adams Hotel and Bar, run by Delightful David and Mercurial Mario; the bar downstairs attracts a motley mix of gaysitors from around the world.  Adams is located on a quiet side street in St. Julian’s, making it the perfect place to stay for those who revel in the night, but still want a quiet place to rest at sun up. 

Mdina, known as the Noble City and the Silent City for its aristocratic history and quiet streets respectively, is a walled village previously inhabited by the noble class whose power was eventually usurped by the knights in Valletta.  In a country where old stone villages are numerous, Mdina stands out as the most appealing of them all.  Staying overnight here is a special experience.  The historic Xara Palace Relais & Chateaux is a chic hotel located within the city’s walls that transports guests to another era of finesse, especially in its restaurant De Mondion, which offers outdoor dining on a terrace with views across half the island.

The undiscovered gem of the Republic of Malta, Gozo is the second-largest island. On both Gozo and Malta, ancient temples have been dated as the oldest manmade structures on Earth, predating The Pyramids in Egypt by 500 years.  Not as intact as The Pyramids, the megaliths at Ggantija on Gozo and Mnajdra, Hagar Qim, and Tarxien on Malta nevertheless evoke a spiritual past not yet fully comprehended or explained.  Whatever civilisations lived here 5000 years ago left few traces other than stone sculptures of full-figured females, presumed to be representations of a goddess of fertility, and a few requisite phallic symbols. A place where penises and large women are venerated—gay and lesbian paradise! 

The fabulously friendly Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz is a Gozitan oasis of pleasure.  As always, outstanding staff make the difference.  Thankfully, the hotel has separate pools for adults and families, and its spa has been voted the best in the Mediterranean.  Kempinski operates an ayurveda clinic seemingly airlifted directly from Kerala; the only thing not imported is the water. 

Comino, between Gozo and Malta, is the yet-smaller third island of Malta, home to one of the country’s biggest attractions, the beautiful Blue Lagoon, where azure hues of the sea meld seamlessly with those of the sky .  It can become crowded with day-trippers in the morning, but late afternoon is pleasant and sunny and less busy.  Don’t miss it.

MORE INFORMATION:

• www.maltatourism.com
• www.airmalta.com
• www.visitmalta.com
• www.kempinski-gozo.com
• www.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien
• www.xarapalace.com.mt
• www.adamsmalta.com
• www.gaymalta.com
• www.geocities.com/tombarmalta
• www.omalta.com
• www.lonelyplanet.com – Lonely Planet’s guide to Malta and Gozo is an excellent aid in travel planning.
• www.maltagayrights.org has the latest GLBT news and events in the country.